January 9, 2024  |   

DEADLINE JANUARY 30!

UPDATE …This may be the last week to make substantive comments to our federal management agencies to affect proposed changes to how fixed anchors are managed nationwide. This is MISSION CRITICAL for the climbing community (see Access Fund FAQ). 

CRITICAL…What is important is that comments be aimed at being ‘Substantive’, meaning not form letters or expressions of like/dislike… what moves the needle at the federal agency level are comments that surface new viewpoints and suggestions for ways to better manage our public lands resources. Not an easy ask but nevertheless, that is what is being asked of you. 

To that end we are offering some thoughtful elements to consider when building your commentary – besides the usual keep it relatively brief and to the point, and get it in before the 16th!

Bolting CommentsRandy Leavitt, who addressed the crowd at Climb Smart 2023 in early December with these important pieces of the fixed anchor consideration – leaving any of these up to federal agencies to manage, especially with frozen budgets and chronic understaffing, despite good intentions, isn’t going to work. 

Randy’s points:

  • Can be placed in smart locations to avoid leader fall and rock fall hazard (smart belay stances, etc.).
  • Can direct the rope away from unsafe features like edges and loose blocks.
  • Can direct climber ascent and descent routes  to be safer and have less impact.
  • Can minimize human error.
  • Will allow safe and faster ascent or descent during deteriorating weather conditions.
  • Allow Disabled and less able climbers to experience the joy of climbing, who may be able to clip a bolt, but not place a cam. (Recently I’ve climbed with several who fit into this category – a brave young woman -Madison- who climbs with one hand and a stump of a hand, and a blind guy -Justin- who leads bolted climbs).
  • Allow people with less money to experience climbing. There are people who can’t afford an Indian Creek rack but own 10 quickdraws.
  • Allow climbing on rock less suitable for natural crack protection. Las Vegas area limestone and Echo Cliffs (Los Angeles) are examples.
  • Can reduce the impact of driving (overall  carbon emissions) by equipping nearer climbing areas that may be less suitable for natural protection.
  • Most importantly, fixed anchors save lives.

Read more from ACCESS FUND

Important Pretext: “As climbers, fixed anchors are essential pieces of our safety system that allow us to safely and sustainably access (AND safely retreat from) vertical terrain. Without fixed anchors, many of the wildest and most inspiring places in America would become inaccessible to the public.”

“The proposed guidance presents a serious safety hazard. The policy to restrict or prohibit the placement or replacement of fixed anchors unless specifically authorized through MRA determinations takes critical personal safety decisions away from climbers. The MRA requirement for fixed anchor replacement is unprecedented and would result in unsafe conditions because timely, routine fixed anchor maintenance would be obstructed or prohibited by unnecessary red tape. Traditionally, land managers do not maintain fixed anchors, whereas climbers are responsible for assessing and replacing fixed anchors during climbing activities.”  …read full FAQ

Other Useful Posts:  Bishop Area Climbers Coalition  |  American Safe Climbing Association 

Your substantive comments are crucial for the future of the climbing community safety and health.

An unfunded mandate to increase reliance on federal agencies is the wrong move, sacrificing safety and access to a growing movement of healthy, inclusive and responsible public lands recreationists. 

Once you’ve gotten your talking points together, PLEASE SUBMIT!