History of FOJT

History of FoJT

Joshua Tree National Park (formed as a Monument in 1936, and designated National Park status in 1994) has long enjoyed a reputation as a world-class climbing mecca. For many decades climbers from around the world have come to experience its steep cracks, exposed slabs, and huge granite domes. As rock climbing became more popular, land management agencies and climbers sometimes found themselves at odds when it came to various policies and practices in the Park.

It was in 1991, under the leadership of Cindie Bransford, along with Bob Gaines, Mark Bowling, and Randy Vogel that Friends of Joshua Tree (FoJT) was organized as likely the first local climber’s advocacy group in the country. Their mission was as it is today, Friends of Joshua Tree is dedicated to preserving the historical tradition of climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. Friends of Joshua Tree advocates, communicates, and encourages ethical and environmentally sound climbing practices, and works to shape park policy on climbing and climbing-related issues. Toward that end, Friends of Joshua Tree acts as the liaison between the climbing community and the National Park service.

Although there had been a loose group of climbers who had been working with Joshua Tree National Park (Park) on climbing related issues, the impetus for this move to establish a formal advocacy group was a new proposed Park project that would make Park Blvd. (Route 12) through the Park a one way road.

During this period, climbers made up what was arguably one of the largest single user groups, so it’s understandable that the local community was concerned enough to organize as a group and begin talks with the Park.  After all, a one-way road meant that local residents, climbers, and even visitors, would be looking at more than a 70-mile round trip from Joshua Tree, even if they just wanted to come as far as Intersection Rock, have lunch, and go back home. Subsequent talks with the Park were successful and the project was scraped.

In 1997 we held our first “Climbers Gathering” which we called “Rock In”.  Over the following years, that two-day gathering morphed into a yearly three-day event that we now call Climb Smart. Climb Smart is our way of educating the climbing community to safe and environmentally sound climbing practices with climbing clinics, lectures, and guest speakers.  

FoJT also coordinate two days of projects with the Park that have included trash pickups, watering projects for new transplants, trail restoration projects, social trail re-vegetation projects, caulk clean up to mention just a few.

We became an official partner with the Park when we signed our first MOU in 2008, and a renewed MOA in 2016. Because of our Partnership with the Park and our 501(c)(3) status, we have become the official fundraising organization for Joshua Tree Search and Rescue – JOSAR, and Climb Smart became our main fundraising event and a major source of support for JOSAR.

We’ve worked with five Superintendents in our short history, and today we and the climbing community have a very special and positive relationship with the Park, and we’re working to continue that great relationship.

For more information about all that FoJT does, visit How We Do It.

History of Climbing

The sport of climbing and bouldering are examples of changing visitor use at Joshua Tree N.P.  Nationally & internationally known for technical rock climbing the park has started experiencing the pressure of the sports rising popularity. Such as the increases in the number of visitors camping and hiking, the number of people coming to climb has also increased.

With more visitors use comes more impacts to the natural & cultural resources such as an expansion of the number of social trails, destruction of vegetation and disturbing archeological sites. The park is challenged with managing social trails, vegetation trampling and protecting culturally sensitive sites and climber safety. 

Joshua Tree was known as a place to climb by a small  group of pioneer climbers and local search and rescue teams in the 50’s & 60’s. Th e area was virtually unknown as a climbing destination until the first climbers’ guide was published in 1970. It sold out immediately. A 1976 guide book listed 300 routes. The few climbers utilizing the park at the time came mostly during cold weather when other destinations were unclimbable like Yosemite N.P.

The Oral History of Rock Climbing

As published by Joshua Tree National Park, an oral history of rock climbing project was conducted. Researchers spoke with Joshua Tree Climbers who provided a picture of the park’s rock climbing from the mid-1900s into present day. Topic included free soloing, bolting, and the development of traditional ethics in the park. Overall, the. interviews highlight the historical and cultural significance of recreational rock climbing in Joshua Tree National Park.

To read about the project and the interviews visit www.nps.gov/jotr

Climbing History Project

PDF Download