Oral History of Rock Climbing

THE ORAL HISTORY OF ROCK CLIMBING

from www.nps.gov/jotr

Read about the history of rock climbing from the climbers themselves in these  transcripts which result from a rock climbing oral history project. For this study, researchers spoke with Joshua Tree climbers who provided a picture of the park’s rock climbing from the mid-1900s into the present day. Topics include free soloing, bolting, and the development of traditional ethics in the park. Overall, the interviews highlight the historical and cultural significance of recreational rock climbing in the park.

The project’s official name is the Joshua Tree National Park Historic Resource Study of Recreational Rock Climbing. This research was made possible thanks to a collaboration between the Anthropology Department of the University of California, Riverside, and the National Park Service.

Sandy Esque

Interview Date: 18/02/2020

Biographical Information: Sandy Esque first visited Joshua Tree in the 1980s working as an instructor and guide for Boojum Institute and Outward Bound. She has continued to visit the park up until the present time. She was an eyewitness to the early era of guide development in the park, gender relations evident in guiding practices of that era, and the park’s transition from a quiet secluded monument to a popular destination for many.

Content Summary: Sandy describes her experience working as an instructor for Boojum Institute and Outward Bound and her visits to Joshua Tree, which is identified as the prime winter destination for climbers. She has frequented the park for many years, and can comment on the transition of Joshua Tree’s identity from a secluded natural retreat to a popular climbing destination, developments with gear and ratings, and the commercial aspect of climbing.   …Read More

David Evans

Interview Date: 30/06/2020

Biographical Information: Dave Evans has been climbing in Joshua Tree for over 45 years and was a part of the early Joshua Tree climbing scene cultured by the Stonemasters. Dave’s impressive climbing repertoire includes over 170 recorded first ascents in the park. His experience allows him to describe various climbs that are significant to the climbing culture of Joshua Tree as well as local climbers who left their mark on the sport.

Content Summary: Dave shares stories of the early Joshua Tree climbing scene in the 1970s as the Stonemasters began to take climbing to the next level, both with impressive personal accomplishments and a budding climbing community. Due to his considerable time spent in the park, Dave is also able to comment on the development of routes in Joshua Tree since the 1970s, specifying certain areas and routes that were remarkable, the introduction of controversial ethics, and contrasting elements between Joshua Tree and Yosemite National Park. …Read More

Bob Gaines

Interview Date: 05/11/2020

Biographical Summary: Biographical: Bob has been climbing in Joshua Tree for over 40 years and has over 350 recorded first ascents in the park. He founded the Joshua Tree climbing school Vertical Adventures in 1983, which became one of the highest ranked climbing schools in America. In addition to being certified by the AMGA as a rock climbing instructor, Bob has contributed to the AMGA Single Pitch Manual for the single pitch instructor program. He is also the author of a guidebook to the area, titled Best Climbs Joshua Tree National Park.

Content Summary: Bob recounts his time spent climbing with the group known as the Stonemasters. Important Joshua Tree climbers who pushed the envelope of the upper echelon of climbing are discussed. Various forms of climbing are seen in Joshua Tree, such as toproping and free soloing. Bob’s work with the guiding business, Hollywood, the military, and various climbing associations are discussed as well. …Read More

Mari Gingery

Interview Date: 08/10/2020

Biographical Information: Mari Gingery is a well-known Joshua Tree climber who has climbed in the area for over 40 years. She has written the guidebook titled Joshua Tree Bouldering, which was first published in 1993 and was one of the first guidebooks to focus primarily on bouldering problems. Mari has climbed with many partners such as Lynn Hill, who together with Mari, completed the first female-only ascent of The Shield in Yosemite.

Content Summary: Mari discusses the techniques used by the climbers to improve, which included bouldering, top roping, and repeating routes. Joshua Tree is compared to other climbing areas and is described as being the perfect practicing ground for groups of climbers. The park was a bastion of traditional climbing ethics and was not conducive to the ethics change in the 1980s. …Read More

Todd Gordon

Interview Dates: 08/09/2021 and 05/02/2021

Biographical Information: Todd Gordon is known as “the Mayor” of Joshua Tree. He began climbing in 1972 and came to Joshua Tree to climb in 1976. The nickname “the Mayor” comes from Todd’s longtime residence in the city of Joshua Tree, working as a schoolteacher since the early 1980s. He has over 600 recorded first ascents in the park, some of which include Sexy Grandma (5.9), Cleopatra (5.11), and Bonfire (5.12). Todd also has written a sport climbing guidebook to the area titled Joshua Tree Sport Climbs & Top Ropes Sites (2018).

Content Summary [1]: In this first interview, Todd describes his beginnings with climbing in his youth and the various climbing areas he has visited. Todd discusses the dirtbag climber culture as well as the climbing community that frequented his home in Joshua Tree. He also explains the changes at the park over the years as it relates to climbing ethics, popularity, and other climbing locations. …Read More

Read here for full interviews & transcripts on these climbers and more!